Buenos Aires comes across as the grand dame of Latin America. The city is old and full of history, however, it breathes the energy of someone who recently reinvented itself. Many of the old 19th-century buildings need refurbishment, but somehow that is just adding to their charm. When moving through Buenos Aires one can sense the glory of a bygone area but at the same time feels its heart beating stronger than ever under its skin of crumbling facades. It just requires some silent verses of tango in the air, the smell of fresh-backed empanadas or the loud chatters in one of the wonderful bars to revive the scenery to its old glory.
I am meeting my friend Hernan in his office. An office I know too well from my previous business trips. This time I have no stress anymore. Hernan on the contrary has even more.
As the country manager of the logistics firm I used to work for as well, he tries to manoeuvre the local representation through the 150 percent inflation and local recession that Argentina is going through. Nevertheless, none of this seemed to affect his mood when he gave me a big hug upon my arrival. It's been years since we saw us last but feels like it was only yesterday. Being the good Argentinian that he is, he takes me for a wonderful late steak lunch with some beautiful local wines and we talk about the good old times and the more difficult current ones.
“Latins are tenderly enthusiastic. In Brazil they throw flowers at you. In Argentina they throw themselves.”
Marlene Dietrich
Argentina has just elected a new president. Javier Milei will replace Alberto Fernandez on December 10th. What is just a change of names for me, is the start of a new era for the Argentinians. Not only does the man in charge change, but also the political course he is representing. Javier Milei is a far-right politician who has often been compared with Donald Trump or Jair Bolsonaro, the previous President of Brazil. His views are radical, his ideas conservative. He is liberalizing the gun laws but stands up against abortion. On the other side, however, he seems to be willing to address one of the current biggest issues of Argentina: The big inflation and the immense spending on administration, both of which have helped the social gap in Argentina to widen. Whereas more than 40% of Argentinians are now considered officially poor, a small upper class is holding a big part of the country's wealth. The reason is an immense shadow economy and corruption. The net worth of the previous President of Argentina Christina Kirchner for example had been estimated at 600 Million USD by some sources. Officially she apparently "only' owns 116 Million USD. Whatever it is, it seems high for a person who officially earns 28.000 USD per year as remuneration for political work. Obviously, it is far over the salary level of a motorbike traveler to comment on the political situation in a country, but what is obvious is that the Argentinians are desperate for a change. Even if I am generally no supporter of right-wing politicians, I can understand why many voters now want somebody else in power than the generations of Peronistas that had many chances to lead the country to a brighter future and so I did enter Argentina under one President and will leave it again under another. For Argentina, a journey into a new, uncertain future begins, for me the journey on a motorbike around the world. But first: we have steaks. During Lunch Hernan explained to me his plan to take me to his house in the mountains for a few days, since unfortunately my ship is delayed. Even though we can practically already see it outside of the port, it will only get a free berth in three or four days from now. Until then, I will need to wait. On his farm, we could enjoy a few days in Nature instead of sitting and waiting in the big city. An invite I certainly can't resist.
Since the overland rail network in Latin America is practically not existing anymore good and reliable bus services have developed in economically stronger countries. The really comfortable coaches have sleeper seats or even beds and the bathroom onboard is to my surprise much cleaner and more spacious than the average airplane bathroom. Within 9 hours we are standing well-rested in a small town, halfway, between Cordoba and Mendoza. Since I was sleeping I had missed the transition from city to countryside and now enjoy the wonderful bright morning sun whilst we are waiting for the taxi that will bring us to Hernan's house. The term 'house' however is an understatement to what I see when we stop in front of the beautiful gate that reminds me of old-time cowboy movies. Hernan has created what I would call a mancave on a farm in the middle of nowhere. On the small plot of farmland, Hernan has built a loft-like house that consists of one big room, which even unites the Garage and living room. If you want you can ride with your motorbike into the kitchen or park it next to the big industrial fireplace. I absolutely fell in love with the design. Also on the land is a smaller guesthouse in which I will stay for the time we will spend here. Between our two houses is a BBQ spot and between the beautiful old trees a hammock is swinging in the wind. Opposite side of the main house are the horse stables for two horses and in the center of all is a small pool. All this is surrounded by picturesque mountains on one side and a vast valley on the other side. I am in love.
On the farm, that Hernan had called Cruz del Sur, lives apart from us also Hernan's friend Andrea who everyone calls Colo because of her red hair. Andrea is a wonderful person with not only colorful hair but also a very colorful character. She is lively, loud, and funny. Her good mood is contagious and despite having it not always easy in life, she is kind of the good soul of the house. I instantly liked her and when Hernan got sick with a stomach bug for a few days, Andrea happily took his space as host and took me on motorbike and quad tours in the area. Despite the language barrier we have loads of fun together and explore some of the true beauties of the area. It is no surprise that San Louis has become more and more popular amongst nature lovers. The different landscapes and small villages look like Argentina in a travel guide. I quickly understood why my friend fell for this area so easily. It's a simpler life out here, close to nature, with little of the modern societies comforts. Wifi is a luxury item. Electricity might be down some days. The next shopping mall is many miles away. But at night, we can see the stars.
I know that many people who are living in the small villages out here struggle with the challenges the country goes through. I do fully understand that the liter of fuel, that only costs me the equivalent of 30 cents, is a big investment when you only earn 400 dollars a month or even less, but I also see how much more people here seem to be at peace with themselves. What impresses me the most is how proud people are. Proud of their region. Their country. Their culture and products. Regardless whether it is the butcher, the grocery shop owner, or the winemaker, everyone exactly knows where their products come from and is convinced that they are the best in the world. Maybe the 24/7 availability of food and drinks, the constant urge for commerce and the hunt for money have made the Western world blind to the true beauty in life. Perhaps it doesn't need Michelin to find the good food places in the world. Maybe it just needs a humble guy who invested his love and time into raising a cow who then helped him to make a living. And maybe that's why simple places like this really provide the best in the world. Peace, a good glass of wine, and a sizzling steak from a cow that enjoyed day and night the beauty of this very nature around me. Nothing more but certainly also nothing less.
Sitting here, in the middle of nowhere, I do fully understand why my friend has chosen this place to be his home. Maybe it is as Virginia Wolf said, and you can't find peace by avoiding life, but very, very likely you can find it where a life is actually worth living.